Types of Chikankari Work: A Guide to the Intricate Art ?

Chikankari embroidery is a centuries-old craft originating from Lucknow, India. Known for its delicate and intricate patterns, Chikankari features a variety of stitches, each with its unique charm. The versatility of this art lies in the sheer range of techniques and styles used by skilled artisans. This blog explores the different types of Chikankari work that make this embroidery so special.

1. Tepchi (Running Stitch)

Tepchi is one of the simplest forms of Chikankari. It involves a basic running stitch worked on the right side of the fabric.

• Characteristics:

• Straight or diagonal lines are used to create floral or geometric patterns.

• Often used as a base stitch or filler.

• Fabric: Best suited for lightweight materials like cotton or muslin.

• Appeal: Adds subtle texture and elegance to kurtis and sarees.

2. Bakhiya (Shadow Work)

Bakhiya, or shadow work, is one of the most iconic Chikankari techniques. It involves creating designs on the reverse side of the fabric, resulting in a shadowy effect on the front.

• Characteristics:

• Used for floral and paisley motifs.

• Creates a soft, translucent design.

• Fabric: Works best on sheer fabrics like chiffon, georgette, or organza.

• Appeal: Gives a delicate, ethereal look to the garment.

3. Phanda (Knotted Stitches)

Phanda involves small, grain-like knots used to create intricate details.

• Characteristics:

• Often used to make flowers, buds, and motifs.

• Adds depth and texture.

• Fabric: Looks beautiful on all fabrics, from cotton to silk.

• Appeal: Perfect for adding intricate details to heavy Chikankari pieces.

4. Keel Kangan (Petal Stitches)

Keel Kangan is used to create petal-like motifs, adding a floral touch to Chikankari embroidery.

• Characteristics:

• The stitches resemble flower petals or cone-like shapes.

• Often paired with other stitches like Phanda or Tepchi.

• Fabric: Commonly used on cotton and muslin fabrics.

• Appeal: Adds a soft, feminine vibe to garments.

5. Jaali (Openwork or Net Effect)

Jaali work is one of the most labor-intensive types of Chikankari. It involves creating open spaces within the fabric, resembling a mesh or net.

• Characteristics:

• The fabric threads are delicately pulled apart without breaking them.

• Creates a lace-like effect.

• Fabric: Typically done on sturdy fabrics like cotton.

• Appeal: Adds sophistication and an airy feel to kurtis, sarees, and dupattas.

6. Murri (Grain-Like Stitches)

Murri is a type of knotted stitch that resembles small grains or rice.

• Characteristics:

• Used to fill floral patterns or motifs.

• Requires immense skill and precision.

• Fabric: Enhances fabrics like silk and georgette.

• Appeal: Ideal for creating high-end, luxurious Chikankari pieces.

7. Hool (Eyelet Stitches)

Hool involves creating tiny eyelet-like holes surrounded by embroidery.

• Characteristics:

• Often used in floral designs to mimic flower centers.

• Adds a delicate touch.

• Fabric: Works best on cotton and lightweight fabrics.

• Appeal: Adds a playful, intricate detail to casual and festive wear.

8. Zanzeera (Chain Stitches)

Zanzeera is a fine chain stitch used for outlining patterns.

• Characteristics:

• Often combined with other stitches to define motifs.

• Adds a neat finish to the embroidery.

• Fabric: Commonly used on cotton and chiffon.

• Appeal: Enhances the overall design, adding structure and elegance.

9. Ghas Patti (Grass Leaves)

Ghas Patti is a leaf-like stitch that resembles blades of grass.

• Characteristics:

• Used for foliage motifs in floral designs.

• Creates a dense and textured look.

• Fabric: Looks best on fabrics like muslin and georgette.

• Appeal: Adds a natural and earthy touch to Chikankari pieces.

10. Darzdari (Specialized Embroidery)

Darzdari combines various stitches like Bakhiya, Phanda, and Jaali to create intricate patterns.

• Characteristics:

• Often used in high-end, luxurious Chikankari pieces.

• Requires immense skill and time.

• Fabric: Best suited for premium fabrics like silk and organza.

• Appeal: Makes the garment look opulent and unique.

Conclusion

Chikankari embroidery is a celebration of artistry, precision, and tradition. Each type of Chikankari stitch adds its unique charm, transforming simple fabrics into timeless masterpieces. By understanding the different types of Chikankari work, you can appreciate the effort and skill that go into creating these stunning pieces.

Whether you’re buying a simple kurti or an elaborate saree, knowing the stitches can help you recognize the authenticity and value of this beautiful craft.

Would you like suggestions for images showcasing different types of Chikankari work or close-ups of these stitches? Let me know how I can assist further!